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Von Dutch Monday XIII

Ok, how cool is this? A roller skate powered by a nitro- burning 2 stroke engine. Just your average '50's girl's steel wheeled sidewalk roller skate powered by a .23 ci. engine, that turned 13,000 RPM according to the letter Dutch sent Hot Rod magazine that showed up in their Nov. '55 issue. You'll notice that in the specs Dutch painted on the skate, it says 1,300 RPM. Dutch said the ignition was via glow plug, and the engine had a counterbalanced, double ended crankshaft mounted in ball bearings. The rear wheels mounted directly to the crankshaft ends. Holy cow.

This thing actually worked. Somewhere I have a photo of Von Dutch tearing down the street on the skates, with a teather string for a throttle. I can't find it right now, but when I do, I'll post it up for you to see.

Some people have said that both the pair of skates were powered, but Dutch only powered one of them. That was how you "stopped" yourself - when you had scared yourself silly on them, you raised the powered skate off the ground to "stop" yourself. Sidewalk cracks must have been a bitch!

Here's a drawing of a 2 stroke pogo stick that Dutch sent along with another photo of his roller skate to Hot Rod magazine, that they published in their Nov. '55 issue. Dutch said in part, in the acompaning letter, that the pogo stick ".....is under construction now (pilot model), to be available in one, two, and three story hop models".

Now, I've never seen a photo of the finished pogo stick, and I've always read that Von Dutch never actually built one, but.......

I have a friend that I trust when he tells me something, and he told me that Dutch actually had this pogo stick almost finished, then he traded it off. Now, my friend says that a person he knew very well had possession of the pogo stick at one time, and he also saw the pogo stick himself. He said that person who had it was none other than Slave Lewie Roseberry. Take it for what it's worth....

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Déjà Vu: Spot lights done correctly

This light bar needs rewired. The spotlights come on with the key as wired now . That means they will pull on the battery when you are trying to start the bike. I would bet it's tapped into marker lights with a scotch lock, too. That's bad because it could come loose and if you want to replace the 25 watt lights with 50 watt lights you will pop fuse. 25 watt lights are really a trick to come by.


I really don't like how this is routed with no shrinkwrap either.


Here's the tap.


Not a scotch lock, but I'm still going to move it.


This is the best way to wire a light bar on 1500/1600 Vulcan. The Aux circuit gives you a 10 amp fuse. Tapping the blue/yellow headlight turn-on wire, means the lights won't come on until the motor runs. The lighted switch means you can turn them off if you want and see if there's power to the switch.


Build a two wire harness to go from the Aux lead and ground lead that are under the tank. (Those are in the headlight bucket on a 1600.)


Route it.




I didn't get pictures of the wires from the switch side, but you need 4 wires when using a lighted switch. One to the spotlight itself, one for each side of the switch, and ground to make the light of switch work.

I used a square relay I had on hand, and I discovered that had to clearance the headlight backing to fit everything. Last time I used a Pilot Brand with Molex Socket relay it's smaller and fits fine.


The worst part of this project is that I won't be able to test it until I get antifreeze back into the engine and a fuel tank back on it and then fire it off.

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