Want to win a complete set up? Simply follow ChopCult on Instagram, look for this image and play along. The winner will be announced on 9/11/2016. Big thanks to Sean at No School Choppers for his never-ending support for the CC community!
1/2 inch wrench 1/2 inch socket 3/8 Drive Ratchet 1/4 Drive Ratchet Flathead Screwdriver T25 Torx Bit 1/4 inch Allen
All the tools needed for the job.
How To Install: Cole Foster Gas Tank
Step 1. Remove the seat screw from the fender with a flathead screwdriver. Push forward on the seat to release from the tab located in the middle of the seat. After it releases pull back on the seat from the tank to release the tab from underneath the tank.
Todd pushing the seat forward to release from the middle tab.
This is how the center tab hooks onto the seat.
Step 2. Remove the front and rear tank bolts. The front use a 1/4 inch allen and 1/2 inch wrench to loosen. Use a 1/2 inch wrench and 1/2 inch socket to remove the bolt from the rear.
Todd removing the rear tank bolt with 1/2 inch wrench and socket.
Todd using an extension for his socket to stay clear of the tank. He is using a 1/4 inch allen and a 1/2 wrench to take of the front tank bolt.
Step 3. There are 3 things we have to disconnect before removing the tank from the bike. 1. You have to unplug the electrical wiring going to the fuel pump. 2. Pull the anti vapor valve hose from the tank. 3. There is a quick disconnect valve located on the fuel pump itself that must be disconnected too.
Here is where the electrical line is located on the left side of the bike. Push the button in the middle and pull, it will slide free.
The vapor line is also located on the left side of the bike on the lower left corner of the stock tank. Pull down and it will easily relate from the tank fitting.
To disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump, push up on the silver cylinder and pull down on the fuel line.
Step 4. Now you can remove the tank from the bike. Todd removing the gas tank from the bike.
Step 5. Make sure fuel cap is fully tightened. Carefully turn the tank upside down on a soft cloth to protect it and remove the 5 screws that hold the fuel pump in place with a T25 torx bit.
Todd removing the 5 screws. Note- if gas leaks from the cap you should try to find away to empty the gas tank first so that you don't have a huge mess on your hands.
Step 6. Remove the fuel pump assembly from the tank, this may take a little finagling but be patient and note how it comes out to make it easier to go into the new Cole Foster Gas Tank. Todd removing the fuel pump, at this point he found it easier to angle the pump away from him to get it out completely.
Step 7. Check the fuel pump plate gasket to see if it is in good shape or if it needs replaced. It should be seated properly, flat on each side, with the rounded portions keeping it seated in place in the groove. Todd checking the fuel pump gasket.
Step 8. Install the fuel pump into the Cole Foster Gas tank. Tighten down the 5 plate screws until they are all snug, then go back around and completely tighten. The fuel pump does have a factory torque spec on those screws, which is in inch pounds, be sure to look that up in your service manual. Make sure to put the pump in the Cole Foster Gas Tank the same way you took it out from the stock tank.
Line up your holes before putting your screws in place.
Make sure to put your screws in snug and then fully tighten.
Step 9. Install the Cole Foster Gas Tank on to the bike using the same front and rear bolts. Todd using the same stock bolts to put the Cole Foster Gas Tank on.
Pay attention to the coil bracket that attaches with the front bolt as well. There are some locating squares for the coil bracket. The tank may need to be lifted slightly at the front to make the holes line up.
Again the rear uses 1/2 inch wrench and socket and the front uses 1/4 inch allen and 1/2 wrench to tighten.
Step 10. 1. Plug your electrical wiring connector back in after tucking it behind your quick disconnect valve on the fuel pump and behind your rear spark plug wire. 2. Plug in your fuel line back into the quick connect valve on the fuel pump. Push up on the silver cylinder, push the fuel line up and it will click into place. You will hear the plug click when it slides back together.
Fuel line connected to the quick connect valve on the fuel pump.
Step 11. Put some gas in the new tank, screw the gas cap on, and GO FOR A RIDE!!!
This is the gas cap that comes with your Cole Foster Gas Tank.
The Before A Stock 2009 Harley-Davdison Sportster Tank.
In need of more help on this install. Never fear we have got you covered. Check out Todd giving a step by step how to install this Cole Foster Gas Tank in the video below.
We're riding to the Cabazon Dinosaurs to remember Capt. Art and spread some of his ashes! If you we're fortunate enough to know Art, for even a little or a lot, or even if you didn't hear tell tale of the legends, you know how special a person he was and how much we miss the ol' Capt. (even though he was only 33, yeah, he was the Captain of a Tall Ship out of Dana Point... aye aye Captain!) We'll meet in Long Beach at the closed Tilted Kilt on 2nd and PCH and roll out to Cabazon (should get there slightly before noon'ish). Drive or Ride, it's up to you. This is in remembrance of ARTURO ZAMARRIPA!
This is what I actually built. It's pretty amazing that the valve seals held back that much oil in the head and the only leaks were the engine crank and pushrod tubes.
I will be working with Daniel at Longbow Custom in Bartlesville, OK to rebuild this motor once again this winter. His strategy is to go ahead and drill the cases straight through like an Evo as shown below. The piston skirt should still get plenty of oil from the flywheels and crankcase.
I had a request to do a drawing for this tool. I'm not a great draftsman and kind of a questionable engineer. I actually drew this in PowerPoint believe it or not. You can enter the feature sizes, but dimensioning is very manual. If you have a lathe and time, knock yourself out. Click through and print and it should be close to 1:1 scale.
Anyway, my Camelbak bladder finally got a pinhole in it after 13 years of good use. I have had my eye on the Cenote bladders for a bit. They are made by the same folks that make Polar Bottles which are great and I use anytime a back pack bladder isn't a feasible option. The big selling point for the Cenote is the price point makes it a disposable/recyclable instead of cleaning at some point. The first thing of note is the Cenote has the filler and straw on the same fitting. That makes sense to save material and cost. It also makes burping the air out a lot easier. Getting the air out is important if you don't want to listen to it slosh around and around if you're running. The downside to this is that with my little back set up, I have to completely remove the Cenote from my pack to fill it. (Bigger backpacks require this anyway.) That's not a huge deal for exercising and just using one fill up. Pulling everything apart to fill it at a gas stop on the road is a pain.
The bite valves are very different, too. For most things, the Cenote is actually better(shown in closed position), but not if you trying to shove the huge thing into a full face helmet running down the road on a motorcycle. It's doable, but not as easy as the Camelbak. The smaller Camelbak valve could be switched over to the Cenote bladder.
Okay here's the real deal breaker for me and how I use my hydration bladder. The filler hole on the Cenote is much smaller and has no handle. I am sure both of those feature mean less material and cost and the larger hole is not as needed for cleaning the bladder. The larger hole and handle make the Camelbak much more convenient for using on motorcycle trips. It is very challenging to use the ice and water from the gas station soda machine to fill the Cenote. And while I know it's a total cheap ass move to fill my water for free at the travel stop c-store most places don't notice or don't mind.(I usually by a V-8, too.) But leaving a big mess of water and ice everywhere is just bad form for everyone involved.
I really wanted to write an excellent opinion of the Cenote bladder, but the design compromises to save material and cost were a deal breaker for how I use a bladder. I bought another Camelbak bladder and still have three Cenote bladders with one cap and valve that I might use later for something other than motorcycling.
Whether you're Hooligan racing or just want more power, the S&S Hooligan kits for 2000-16 Harley-Davidson Sportster models will give you an edge on the competition. Boost that 883 to 1200cc or your 1200 to 1250cc. Bolt on big bore kits mean easy installation with no machining and no rebalancing. S&S bolt-in cams and premium tappets make the most of the added displacement.
Easy installation "Bolt-on parts" no machining, no rebalancing
Use stock heads, pushrods, and fuel system
Available in silver or black powder coat that matches stock finish
The Second Annual Kernville Kampout is coming up October 14-16, but you already knew that. Here's a handful of things you may not be aware of:
1) CAMPING IS FREE. Yep. We teamed up with friends and sponsors so we could make camping free. We've reserved the entire campground. Please don't bring giant RVs and trailer queens. This is intended to be mostly motorcycle camping with a few vans, trucks, etc but is certainly not an RV club event. Just pull in any time after 2:00 PM on Friday and pick a spot.
2) 805 BEER IS TASTY.
Just like last year, we will have a ton of ice-cold 805 on hand.
3) LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION.
Frandy Campground is right in the middle of town, along the river and easy walking distance to our favorite night spot: the Kernville Saloon. Fishing, tubing, wading, etc in the river is not just allowed, it is encouraged.
4) LIVE MUSIC FROM GUANA BATZ.
Talk about an upgrade over last year! Our friend Pip and the energetic assemble known as the Guana Batz will be live on stage Saturday night, so be ready!
5) TATTOO TRAILER.
The talented artists from Temecula's Old Rose Tattoo are bringing a trailer set-up and will be tattooing Friday and Saturday night. This won't be complicated or free. No reservations, just walk up and wait your turn. They will have a special flash sheet just for this event, plus other stuff to choose from.
Think of this the next time you see a handful of top tier sponsor logos presenting, powering, or hosting a mega-chopper show....
"What's the big deal?"
"I don't care who the sponsors are..."
"A couple (of dozen) logos on a flyer never bothers me..."
"I just go for the free beer!"
"I only ride old knuckleheads so none of this applies to me..."
Until you realize there's ulterior agendas at work. Large corporations have successfully infiltrated the blossoming (uncontrolled growth potential) "scene" (for lack of a better word. Ask a hipster for advice if you're confused) by mere "shiny bead" tactics. "We'll give them some free stuff, and they'll eat right out of our hands... ha ha ha!" Pure Fat Cat money men maneuvering.
So what's this all about then?
Somewhere there is a computer algorithm defined to identify and classify shop phone numbers and addresses and prevent sales from (insert company name here) to your independent "small shop." Effectively denying you the ability to create a unique business and monopolizing the only avenues for new part acquisitions. Of course, you could always "buy Chinese" but you're a prideful kinda guy (or gal) and you wanna support the USA (note to self; most of the parts are still made overseas... shhhhhh).
"None of this sounds very Chopper at all..."
"I'm voting for Hillary, she'll fix everything..."
"I bought my Sportster USED, so I'm okay...."
"I'm one of the extremely few elite that can just have some connected friends fab the parts I need..."
"It's not fair... (insert whaa whaa sounds effects)"
It's (big) business. Nothing more.
Have a complimentary energy drink and go buy a t-shirt ....