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2013 Rad's Extra Sharp Motorcycle Show - Part 2

Some bikes at the 2013 Rad's Extra Sharp Bike Show looked straight out of the 70s.  Check out these two Honda choppers. This one's a 1973...

...and this one's a 1976.

There was also a pair of cool old trikes.  I assume they're VW trikes but I can't say for sure.  First up is Road Kill and it features at least two dead animals on it (maybe more were hiding).

The second is  arguably even more extreme.  Check out the second windshield and the wheelie bar.

I have lots more photos from the show so keep coming back!

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Welcome to BROOKLYN WEEK!



Outside the Brooklyn Invitational


Tom Fugle's "DOUBLE DIAMOND" Panhead
at the Brooklyn Invitational!


photo by Jason Goodrich 


epic pink Triumph outside of the Brooklyn Invitational. 


the crowd at the Indian Larry Block Party
(credit: Indian Larry Motorcycles)

Inside the Brooklyn Invitational


BROTHERS NYC at the Brooklyn Invitational!


Mothership at the UNINVITED show
photo by Jason Goodrich 






ETERNAL INDIAN RIDE

Spare Arts Motorcycle Show - Part 2

A couple of guys I know made the trip down to Austin but I never ran across them, just their bikes.

The Sushi Glide looks very similar to the way it did back in March.  I'm looking forward to seeing this bike done.

Triumph and sidecar:

While it wasn't a huge show (after all, it was the first year and it rained all morning), there was a good turnout and the bikes were really diverse.

Two Sportsters remain...

Shovelhead Rear End Re-do. Part 3: GMA A Caliper Rebuild/Rework

As always, this post has some proven things in it and some things that may only have "seemed like a good idea." I'm sure someone will email me and tell me why all of this won't work.

I lost all the fluid out of my rear brakes twice within the last month or so. I did a new set of pads, o-rings, and bleed nipple the first time. The second time I realized how warped and messed up the rotor was. It was clear the piston had cocked, too.

I opened the caliper halves and noticed these rub spots from the pad's backings.


All sides were a couple of thousands deep and a bit rough,


So I decided it couldn't hurt anything to file those smooth and flat again.


With some patience and work the line starts to disappear.


I got about all I could on both ends of the outboard side. A little bit was left, but that would be a bunch more filing.




Now to the inboard side. Same rubs, but the pins are in the way of the file.


These are basic roll pins, so removal in hard.


A little work with a roll pin punch and hammer.


Results of the file work.





I removed this elbow and cleaned the crud out of the threads.


I put the pin back in, but that was dumb. I should clean those up, too. Replacement pins are available, but I can't seem to find a source.


Back out.


Clean them up.


Still some rub spots, next time I will find new pins for sure.


That's interesting. An 86 vibrapeened right there. I have never noticed that before.


Replace the pins.


Tape the elbow.


Clean everything to get the filings off.


Pop the pistons out.


Pull the o-rings.


A and B kit is the same thing with a little o-ring you won't need.


Get the new o-rings in and I figure I would go ahead and lube them with DOT 5 and install the pistons.


Find the o-ring that fits this counterbore and use it. The other one is for the other style caliber.


Grease.


Just the roll pins nothing else.


Looking good.


Pad


Second pad.


Outboard body.


Again I talked with Ed about this and he's correct, the piston should be taller. When the pads and rotor get thin, the piston push out too far and get cocked, then jam or dump the fluid. There is a lot of slop between pads and rotor with the piston pushed all the way in. Note: the elbow points out a bit to help route the brake line off the tire a bit.


My plan is to use shims between the pad backing and pistons. That should keep the piston deeper in the bore. My initial thought was to knock the friction material off a set of pads and use the backing for a shim. Before I put the work into cleaning off the friction, I did a quick mock-up. The backing is about 0.125 inch and that is too thick.


So Plan B is shims from .063 Aluminum stock I have on had. The old pads will still be the pattern though.


Dye-chem.


Scribe it out.


Transfer punch.


Drill and oblong it a bit.


About right.


Deburr the holes.


Cut out the shape.


About right.


Sand a bit to round off the corners and edges.


I built two of course and did a fit check. One was tight, but a little work...


And it was good to go.


New stack up with shims behind the pads.


Fits tight on the rotor, but still have some room to move. If I had the correct new tire, I would have this thing together. I still need to inspect the master cylinder to make sure it's releasing pressure properly, too.


Everything Went Braaap!!!


Remaining stock just thrown up on the shop...

Shovelhead Rear End Re-do. Part 2: Sprocket and Brake Rotor


Mount some fresh rubber first.


Then employ child labor to use a thread restoring tool to clean the disk side holes.


Fresh, flat, shiny, and new rear brake rotor.


I had some discussions with Ed(Bikerx775) about GMA brake calipers and finding a nice thick rear rotor. I wish I could get an 11 1/2 inch rotor directly from GMA, but they don't seem to make one. So I got this one, I'm not sure the fitment for an 11 1/2 inch rotor, but the bracket(originally for a swingarm bike and modded to rigid style) I have uses 11 1/2 rotor. The minimum thickness is marked 0.205 inch.


The thickness as I measured new was somewhere between 0.230 and 0.240.


The allen heads of the old bolts where suspect and I really didn't want to run the risk of trying to get them out again in the future. So I bought fresh Torx head bolts from Colony. Luckily, this kit was on the same page as the rotor.


I'm going to use some Loctite red, but I'm going to put it on the threads near the bolt head. My thoughts being that Loctite near the top will give with a torch and come apart when I need it to.


Run them down and criss-cross pattern torque. I think the book showing 25 ft*lbs.


Oops, these shims were under the old rotor. These need to go back in I believe.


Rotor comes back off. Child labor still earning his keep.


Shims back in place and Big Boy gets a lesson on how to use a torque wrench.


Clean the threads on the sprocket side.


Clean these bolt threads, too.


This is a 46 toother, it may be a bad idea. If I can't take off without lugging the motor, I'll just swap back to 48 tooth. I figure fresh lock washers and I won't loctite on this side.





I believe the correct torque for these is 45 ft*lbs.


Did I tell you I put a nice new tire on? The wheel and new tire wouldn't go back onto the bike. I told the shop the correct size, they ordered wrong, then ordered correct and I waited another day. I still walked out with the wrong one. I didn't double check it before I mounted it. I doubt I make that mistake again.

Landspeed Knuckle:Part 1

So, I bought the 41 some 6-7 years ago (maybe more?!) from my good friend PQ as a box of parts and over 2 years he and I built it back into a powerplant.  From there she lived in a simple rigid set up that I rode often for most of those years, clocking  well over 20,000 trouble free miles.  Over that whole time period however, I never actually finished the bike.  It was always just a temporary deal, holding me over you could say, until I felt I was ready for the next leg of the journey.

Well, after letting this poor lady sit for almost a whole year, I decided it has been long enough.  I'm starting in on this Landspeed dream while I can!

I'm not really 100% sure of the scope of the project just yet, and there are a ton of details yet to be determined, but I'm starting,

Today I am setting some goals for this project, to hold my self accountable.

1) setting a deadline of one year from yesterday to have a running & riding prototype.  If i'm doing it, I want to push my limits, and I want to do it right.

2) While the quest is indeed about speed, for me it also just as much about actually showing up to the salt flats with a 100% purpose built bike and running it.

3) Enjoying the whole process.  So much of my life is motorcycle related, but 99% of it is work-for-clients.  I do not want to stress about this project, no matter what.  I work on my own stuff because I can, and because I love it.  I welcome this as an opportunity to re-connect with my machine.  Things will not always go as planned. I will have problems. But I love problem solving, and look forward to solving issues they arise.  

4) The experience as a whole will be new for me. The locations, the faces, the history, it's all territory I can't wait to become acquainted with.

 The old set up...
 Saying goodbye

Evaluation!


-Barnstorm



Spare Arts Motorcycle Show - Part 1

Back in March, I attended the Build Art Bike Show (click here for pics) hosted by Andy from Hold Fast Motors.  Andy organized a second show this year called the Spare Arts Motorcycle Show.  It was held August 23rd in Austin, MN.  Instead of riding to the show, I decided to drive and take my kids with me.  It was just as well as we hit rain most of the way down to Austin.  After taking the kids through the Spam Museum, the rain stopped so we headed to downtown Austin and found the show.

Here's Andy's bike:

I believe the trailer next to it was his too:

Jason's Dyna and a pair of Sportsters:

There were a few other neat vehicles at the show too including this VW camper...

..and this Harley-themed bicycle.  You can learn more about the bicycle here.

More motorcycles up next!
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